Ragam Visual dan Makna Pakaian Karnaval Jogja Fashion Week dan Cosplay di Yogyakarta

DENI SETIAWAN, Prof. Dr. Timbul Haryono, M.Sc

2016 | Disertasi | S3 Pengkajian Seni Pertunjukan dan Seni Rupa

Acara Karnaval Jogja Fashion Week (KJFW) dan pameran pakaian cosplay dimaksudkan untuk mendorong perkembangan industri kreatif bidang pakaian di Indonesia. Penggunaan tekstil tradisional dimaksudkan untuk meningkatkan nilai jual dan bidang ekonomi kreatif berbasis industri rumah tangga, menekan laju impor pakaian, dan mengetengahkan nilai-nilai tradisi dengan konsep penciptaan pakaian bersumber dari cerita rakyat, legenda, dan mitos yang berkembang di masyarakat; memberikan hiburan dan pendidikan bagi masyarakat Yogyakarta. Pendidikan yang diberikan meliputi persoalan pemanasan global, pengolahan dan memanfaatkan limbah bekas. Penelitian ini menggunakan analisis bersifat multidisiplin, menggunakan beberapa landasan teori. Teori seni rupa kontemporer, prinsip-prinsip estetika, desain, serta teori fungsi pakaian, digunakan untuk menganalisis konsep penciptaan, bentuk, dan fungsi pakaian, termasuk aksesori. Teori sejarah seni difokuskan pada periodisasi konsep dan tema penciptaan pakaian KJFW dan cosplay di Yogyakarta. Teori sosiologi seni dan tipe-tipe seniman untuk melihat hubungan antara karya seni dan penonton, peran-peran perancang pakaian dalam kategori kelompok seniman, relasi-relasi, dan makna-makna pakaian pada peristiwa KJFW dan pameran cosplay. Kesimpulan dari penelitian disertasi ini, yaitu: (1) konsep penciptaan pakaian KJFW bersumber dari budaya lokal untuk promosi kain tradisional, sedangkan pakaian cosplay sebagai wujud budaya asing (Jepang, Amerika, Eropa) untuk promosi film animasi dan manga; (2) pakaian KJFW dan cosplay memiliki bentuk, fungsi, dan makna yang berbeda; masing-masing gaya pakaian menampilkan karakter yang berbeda, menampilkan tokoh; berfungsi menyampaikan pesan budaya dan industri, membentuk identitas personal dan komunal, pencitraan kain dan perancang pakaian, dan memperlihatkan hubungan dengan relasi sosial lainnya; (3) bentuk seni rupa kontemporer pakaian KJFW dan cosplay dilihat pada penambahan fungsi pada pakaian, dari fungsi pakai menjadi benda pamer atau benda pajang; adanya kebebasan dan kebaruan dalam mengaplikasikan berbagai macam jenis bahan pakaian dan aksesori; pemodernan nilai-nilai tradisional pada bahan pakaian, kegunaan tidak lagi berdasarkan fungsi kain tradisional, tetapi berkembang menjadi sebuah pakaian; memiliki tema-tema yang plural.

The event of Jogja Fashion Week Carnival (JFWC) and cosplay exhibition is purposed to support and motivate the creative industry of fashion in Indonesia. The use of traditional textile is meant to enhance the value and the creative economic side based on the home industry, suppressing the import of the clothes, and putting the tradition value in the concept of making the clothes sourced from folktale, legend, and myth that are spread among the society of Yogyakarta. The education given are including global warming, and the waste management and use. This research uses analysis which is multidiscipline; using some theory. They are contemporary fine arts theory, the principles of aesthetics theory, design, as well as theory of clothing function. They are using to analyze the concept of creating, form, and clothing function, including the accessories. The history of art theory is focused on the periodic of concept and the theme of creation of the JFWC and cosplay clothing in Yogyakarta. The sociology of art and the types of the artists theory to see the relation between the arts, audience, the role of the designer in the artists group, relatives, and the meaning of clothing in the JFWC event and cosplay exhibition. The conclusions of this dissertation are: (1) The concept of the creating of the JFWC costume comes from the local culture to promote the traditional cloth, while the cosplay is the reflection of the foreign culture (Japan, America, European) to promote the animation movie and manga; (2) The costumes on JFWC and cosplay have the different shapes, functions and meaning; each costume presents the different character; used to promote the industry and culture; form the personal and communal identity; the garments and designer imaging; as well as showing the other relations; (3) The contemporary of the JFWC and cosplay costumes can be seen in the additional function of the costume, from the costume as showing stuff, the presence of the freedom and innovation in application the various garments and accessories, the modernization of the traditional values in the garments, the use is not based on the function of the traditional textile, but also developed as costume; having the plural themes.

Kata Kunci : JFWC costume, cosplay costume, contemporary fine arts