Pengembangan Parfum Berbasis Nanoemulsi dengan Senyawa Volatil Gama Melon Parfum

Indra Gunawan, Prof. Dr. apt. T.N. Saifullah Sulaiman, M.Si.; Prof. Dr. Budi Setiadi Daryono, M.Agr.Sc.; Dr. apt. Eka Noviana, M.Sc.

2026 | Disertasi | S3 Ilmu Farmasi

Gama Melon Parfum (GMP) memiliki aroma khas, tetapi pemanfaatannya terbatas pada karakterisasi. Penelitian ini bertujuan mengembangkan parfum berbasis nanoemulsi dengan senyawa volatil GMP melalui optimasi komposisi notes dan formula parfum berbasis nanoemulsi serta evaluasi stabilitas fisikokimia dan keamanan.

Penelitian mencakup pengendalian bahan biologis dan ekstraksi kulit GMP; karakterisasi fisikokimia dan profil kimia tiga komponen aroma; optimasi komposisi notes menggunakan D-optimal mixture design; optimasi formula parfum berbasis nanoemulsi menggunakan I-optimal mixture design; evaluasi stabilitas fisikokimia pada bulan ke-0 dan ke-6 penyimpanan suhu ruang; serta uji mikrobiologi dan iritasi dermal.

Tanaman teridentifikasi sebagai Cucumis melo L. ‘Gama Melon Parfum’ dan dipanen 28 hari pascapolinasi. Ekstrak volatil GMP, minyak atsiri mawar, dan minyak atsiri vanila secara operasional diklasifikasikan sebagai top notes, middle notes, dan base notes. Komposisi notes terpilih memuat ketiganya berturut-turut sebanyak 0,95, 0,55, dan 0,50 mL (desirability 0,790; bobot jenis 0,8102; viskositas 0,7931 cps; hedonik 9,72 cm). Ketiga model D-optimal tidak signifikan dan tidak prediktif. Lima model I-optimal signifikan; prediktivitas model PDI lemah, sedangkan potensial zeta menghasilkan model rerata. Formula parfum berbasis nanoemulsi terpilih (desirability 0,781) memuat komposisi notes terpilih 1,50 mL, Kolliphor® EL 4,16 mL, PEG-400 0,30 mL, dan air deionisasi 14,04 mL dalam campuran rancangan 20,00 mL; 2-phenoxyethanol 0,20 mL ditambahkan terpisah. Formula menghasilkan transparansi 95,60%, bobot jenis 1,0422, viskositas 11,3939 cps, ukuran droplet 32,90 nm, PDI 0,176, potensial zeta ?0,623 mV, dan pH 4,50. Bobot jenis berada di luar interval prediksi 95%, sedangkan potensial zeta tidak menunjukkan stabilisasi elektrostatik kuat. Setelah 6 bulan, transparansi, ukuran droplet, PDI, dan pH menjadi 95,50%, 23,38 nm, 0,149, dan 4,39. Angka lempeng total <10>C. albicans, S. aureus, dan P. aeruginosa tidak terdeteksi. Indeks iritasi primer 0,17–1,83 menunjukkan respons sangat ringan hingga ringan dan reversibel. Hasil mendukung stabilitas fisikokimia terukur dan profil keamanan topikal awal dalam kondisi penelitian.

Gama Melon Parfum (GMP) has a distinctive aroma but has mainly been characterized. This study developed a nanoemulsion-based perfume containing GMP volatiles through fragrance-note and formulation optimization and physicochemical stability and safety evaluation.

The methods comprised biological control and extraction from GMP peel; physicochemical characterization and chemical profiling of three components; D-optimal optimization of fragrance-note composition; I-optimal optimization of nanoemulsion-based perfume formulation; physicochemical evaluation at months 0 and 6 of room-temperature storage; and microbiological and dermal irritation tests.

The material was identified as Cucumis melo L. ‘Gama Melon Parfum’ and harvested 28 days after pollination. GMP volatile extract, rose essential oil, and vanilla essential oil were operationally classified as top notes, middle notes, and base notes. The selected fragrance-note composition contained them, respectively, at 0.95, 0.55, and 0.50 mL (desirability 0.790; specific gravity 0.8102; viscosity 0.7931 cps; hedonic response 9.72 cm). The three D-optimal models were nonsignificant and nonpredictive. Five I-optimal models were significant; the PDI model was weakly predictive, whereas zeta potential yielded a mean model. The selected nanoemulsion-based perfume formulation (desirability 0.781) comprised 1.50 mL fragrance-note composition, 4.16 mL Kolliphor® EL, 0.30 mL PEG-400, and 14.04 mL deionized water in a 20.00-mL design mixture; 0.20 mL 2-phenoxyethanol was added separately. It yielded 95.60% transparency, 1.0422 specific gravity, 11.3939 cps viscosity, 32.90 nm droplet size, 0.176 PDI, ?0.623 mV zeta potential, and pH 4.50. Specific gravity fell outside the 95% prediction interval, whereas zeta potential did not indicate strong electrostatic stabilization. After six months, transparency, droplet size, PDI, and pH were 95.50%, 23.38 nm, 0.149, and 4.39. Total plate count was <10>C. albicans, S. aureus, and P. aeruginosa were not detected. Primary irritation indices of 0.17–1.83 indicated very slight to slight reversible responses. Results support measured physicochemical stability and a preliminary topical safety profile under study conditions.

Kata Kunci : parfum, nanoemulsi, senyawa volatil, gama melon, rekayasa campuran