Optimasi Cetearyl Alcohol dan Gliseril Stearat sebagai Emulgator pada Sediaan Losion Ekstrak Air Jamur Tiram (Pleurotus ostreatus (Jacq.) P. Kumm.)

Shofia Aqila Mailani, Dr. apt. Indah Purwantini, S.Si., M.Si.; Prof. Dr. apt. Teuku Nanda Saifullah Sulaiman, S.Si., M.Si.

2026 | Skripsi | FARMASI

Kondisi kulit kering dapat memicu masuknya alergen, iritan, keadaan patologik kulit serta dermatitis atopik. Jamur tiram (Pleurotus ostreatus) kaya akan kandungan senyawa bioaktifnya, salah satunya yaitu beta-glukan. Beta-glukan memiliki manfaat untuk mengatasi masalah kulit seperti kulit kering, memperbaiki skin barrier, penyembuhan luka, dermatitis atopik, dan penuaan dini akibat sinar UV. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk melakukan optimasi kombinasi emulgator gliseril stearat dan cetearyl alcohol pada sediaan losion ekstrak air jamur tiram. 

Jamur tiram dikukus, dikeringkan dengan oven, lalu dihaluskan menjadi serbuk. Ekstaksi dilakukan menggunakan metode infundasi pada suhu 90°C selama 4 jam dengan perbandingan simplisia dan pelarut sebesar 1:20. Ekstrak yang diperoleh diuapkan hingga kental dan dikeringkan menggunakan freeze dryer. Optimasi formula losion dilakukan dengan bantuan software Design Expert versi 13 untuk menentukan perbandingan optimum gliseril stearat dan cetearyl alcohol menggunakan metode Simplex Lattice Design (SLD). Evaluasi sediaan meliputi organoleptis, homogenitas, pH, profil tekstur (viskositas dan daya lekat), serta uji stabilitas. Formula optimum selanjutnya dianalisis secara statistik menggunakan one sample t-test dan paired sample t-test. 

Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa peningkatan konsentrasi cetearyl alcohol dan gliseril stearat mampu meningkatkan viskositas dan daya lekat sediaan losion ekstrak air jamur tiram, dengan cetearyl alcohol lebih dominan dalam meningkatkan viskositas dan daya lekat dibandingkan dengan gliseril stearat. Formula optimum yang didapatkan yaitu formula dengan proporsi cetearyl alcohol 0,5?n gliseril stearat 5,5%. Hasil verifikasi formula optimum menunjukkan bahwa nilai viskositas dan daya lekat yang diperoleh masing-masing sebesar 1368 N/m²  dan 365,33 J/m³ yang masuk ke dalam rentang yang diharapkan. Formula optimum sediaan losion mengalami penurunan stabilitas pada minggu ke-3 dan ke-4 yang ditandai dengan adanya penurunan viskositas dan daya lekat di bawah batas minimum yang diharapkan selama masa pengujian.

Dry skin conditions can facilitate the penetration of allergens, irritants, pathological skin conditions, and contribute to the development of atopic dermatitis. Oyster mushroom (Pleurotus ostreatus) is rich in bioactive compounds, one of which is beta-glucan. Beta-glucan has been reported to provide various skin benefits, including alleviating dry skin, improving the skin barrier, promoting wound healing, managing atopic dermatitis, and preventing premature aging caused by UV radiation. This study aimed to optimize the combination of glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol as emulsifiers in an oyster mushroom aqueous extract lotion formulation.

Oyster mushrooms were steamed, oven-dried, and ground into powder. Extraction was performed using the infusion method at 90°C for 4 hours with a mushroom-to-solvent ratio of 1:20. The resulting extract was concentrated and dried using a freeze dryer. Lotion formulation was optimized using Design-Expert version 13 to determine the optimum ratio of glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol through the Simplex Lattice Design (SLD) method. The formulations were evaluated for organoleptic properties, homogeneity, pH, texture profile (viscosity and adhesiveness), and stability. The optimum formula was further analyzed statistically using one-sample t-test and paired-sample t-test.

The results showed that increasing the concentrations of cetearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate increased the viscosity and adhesiveness of the oyster mushroom aqueous extract lotion. Cetearyl alcohol exhibited a more dominant effect on improving viscosity and adhesiveness compared to glyceryl stearate. The optimum formula consisted of 0,5?tearyl alcohol and 5,5% glyceryl stearate. The optimum formula verification demonstrated that the viscosity and adhesiveness values were 1368 N/m² and 365,33 J/m³, respectively, both of which were within the expected range. However, the optimum lotion formulation showed a decline in stability during the third and fourth weeks of storage, as indicated by decreases in viscosity and adhesiveness below the expected minimum limits throughout the testing period.

Kata Kunci : jamur tiram, losion, emulgator, gliseril stearat, cetearyl alcohol