Ethics, Legitimacy, and Market: UNIQLO's Strategies in the Global Fast Fashion Industries

Gisela Atalia Early, Dr. Luqman Nul Hakim, M.A.

2026 | Skripsi | Ilmu Hubungan Internasional

This thesis examines how ethical issues shape competition and legitimacy in the global fast fashion industry through the case of UNIQLO. Using a post-structural political economy perspective, this study draws on the ideas of Michel Foucault and Jean Baudrillard to argue that ethics is not fixed, but socially constructed through branding, discourse, and cultural narratives. The research focuses on how UNIQLO responds to growing ethical concerns related to labor exploitation, environmental damage, overconsumption, and supply chain transparency while maintaining its global market position. Using qualitative document analysis from academic journals, company reports, media articles, and branding materials, this thesis explores how ethics becomes part of corporate strategy in the fast fashion industry.

The findings show that UNIQLO uses strategies such as LifeWear branding, RE.UNIQLO sustainability programs, supply chain transparency, humanitarian partnerships, and cultural collaborations to build an image of responsibility, simplicity, and cultural awareness. These strategies help the company reduce criticism and create symbolic distance from the negative image often associated with fast fashion brands. Drawing from Baudrillard’s concept of sign value, this thesis argues that consumers today buy products not only for practical use, but also for the ethical and symbolic meanings attached to the brand. As a result, ethics becomes part of market competition, consumer desire, and brand legitimacy. This study concludes that UNIQLO’s ethical positioning functions not only as a moral commitment, but also as a political economy strategy to maintain legitimacy, attract consumers, and support continued growth in the global market.

This thesis examines how ethical issues shape competition and legitimacy in the global fast fashion industry through the case of UNIQLO. Using a post-structural political economy perspective, this study draws on the ideas of Michel Foucault and Jean Baudrillard to argue that ethics is not fixed, but socially constructed through branding, discourse, and cultural narratives. The research focuses on how UNIQLO responds to growing ethical concerns related to labor exploitation, environmental damage, overconsumption, and supply chain transparency while maintaining its global market position. Using qualitative document analysis from academic journals, company reports, media articles, and branding materials, this thesis explores how ethics becomes part of corporate strategy in the fast fashion industry.

The findings show that UNIQLO uses strategies such as LifeWear branding, RE.UNIQLO sustainability programs, supply chain transparency, humanitarian partnerships, and cultural collaborations to build an image of responsibility, simplicity, and cultural awareness. These strategies help the company reduce criticism and create symbolic distance from the negative image often associated with fast fashion brands. Drawing from Baudrillard’s concept of sign value, this thesis argues that consumers today buy products not only for practical use, but also for the ethical and symbolic meanings attached to the brand. As a result, ethics becomes part of market competition, consumer desire, and brand legitimacy. This study concludes that UNIQLO’s ethical positioning functions not only as a moral commitment, but also as a political economy strategy to maintain legitimacy, attract consumers, and support continued growth in the global market.

Kata Kunci : fast fashion, ethics, legitimacy, political economy, UNIQLO, branding, sustainability