STABILITAS DAN SIFAT FISIK KOMBINASI GELLING AGENT NATRIUM ALGINAT DAN KARBOPOL PADA EMULGEL MINYAK NYAMPLUNG (Calophyllum Inophyllum L) & MINYAK BIJI BUNGA MATAHARI (Helianthus Annuus L.) SEBAGAI TABIR SURYA SECARA IN VITRO

Selvy Apriani, Dr. apt. Sekar Ayu Pawestri; Prof. Dr. Apt. Abdul Karim Zulkarnain, S.E., M.Si

2026 | Skripsi | FARMASI

Paparan sinar ultraviolet (UV) dapat menimbulkan berbagai kerusakan kulit seperti eritema, penuaan dini, hingga kanker kulit, sehingga diperlukan tabir surya yang efektif dan aman digunakan. Tabir surya konvensional yang berbasis bahan kimia sintetis sering dikaitkan dengan risiko iritasi dan penurunan fotostabilitas, sehingga pemanfaatan bahan alam yang memiliki aktivitas fotoprotektif menjadi alternatif yang menarik. Minyak nyamplung (Calophyllum inophyllum L.) dan minyak biji bunga matahari (Helianthus annuus L.) diketahui mengandung senyawa fotoprotektor dan antioksidan kuat seperti polifenol, kumarin/neoflavonoid, asam lemak tak jenuh, dan vitamin E. Penelitian ini bertujuan mengevaluasi pengaruh kombinasi natrium alginat dan karbopol terhadap sifat fisik, stabilitas, serta aktivitas tabir surya secara in vitro emulgel minyak nyamplung dan minyak biji bunga matahari. Optimasi formula dilakukan secara eksperimental menggunakan metode Simplex Lattice Design dengan bantuan software Design Expert. Formula optimum dievaluasi sifat fisiknya berupa organoleptik, homogenitas, pH, viskositas, dan diameter sebar, uji stabilitas dengan cycling test, serta diuji aktivitas tabir surya secara in vitro menggunakan spektrofotometri UV-Vis (metode Mansur) untuk menentukan nilai SPF, %Transmisi eritema (%TE) dan %Transmisi pigmentasi (%TP).

Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa formula optimum emulgel tabir surya minyak nyamplung dan minyak biji bunga matahari diperoleh pada konsentrasi natrium alginat 4,08?n karbopol 0,92?ngan hasil eksperimental berupa pH 5,5; viskositas 12273,203 mPa.s; dan diameter sebar 5,685 cm, serta nilai desirability 0,921. Uji verifikasi formula optimum menunjukkan tidak ada perbedaan yang bermakna antara nilai prediksi software dengan data aktual pada parameter pH, viskositas, dan diameter sebar. Pengujian aktivitas tabir surya pada konsentrasi 2 ppm menghasilkan nilai SPF sebesar 3,1172±0,045, dengan nilai %Transmisi eritema (%TE) dan %Transmisi pigmentasi (%TP) masing-masing sebesar 0,004911%±0,00087 dan 1,7709%±0,30923.

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation can cause various skin disorders, including erythema, premature aging, and skin cancer therefore, effective and safe sunscreen products are required. Conventional sunscreens based on synthetic chemical agents are often associated with irritation and reduced photostability, making the use of natural ingredients with photoprotective activity a promising alternative. Nyamplung oil (Calophyllum inophyllum L.) and sunflower seed oil (Helianthus annuus L.) are known to contain potent photoprotective and antioxidant compounds, such as polyphenols, coumarins/neoflavonoids, unsaturated fatty acids, and vitamin E. This study aimed to evaluate the effect of sodium alginate and carbopol combinations on the physical properties, stability, and in vitro activity of emulgel formulations containing nyamplung oil and sunflower seed oil. Formula optimization was conducted experimentally using the Simplex Lattice Design method with Design Expert software. The optimum formulation was evaluated for its physical characteristics, including organoleptic properties, homogeneity, pH, viscosity, and spreadability, as well as physical stability using the cycling test method. Sunscreen activity was determined in vitro using UV–Vis spectrophotometry (Mansur method) to calculate the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), percentage of erythema transmission (%TE), and percentage of pigmentation transmission (%TP).

The results showed that the optimum emulgel sunscreen formulation containing nyamplung oil and sunflower seed oil was obtained at sodium alginate and carbopol concentrations of 4.08% and 0.92%, respectively, with experimental values of pH 5.5, viscosity 12,273.203 mPa·s, spreadability 5.685 cm, and a desirability value of 0.921. Verification testing indicated no significant differences between the predicted and experimental values for pH, viscosity, and spreadability. The in vitro sunscreen activity at a concentration of 2 ppm demonstrated an SPF value of 3,1172±0,045, with %TE and %TP values of 0.004911%±0.00087 and 1.7709%±0.30923, respectively.

Kata Kunci : nyamplung, biji bunga matahari, tabir surya