Pengaruh penambahan fraksi etanol daun Plantago major L. terhadap fotostabilitas dan efektivitas oktil metoksisinamat sebagai bahan aktif tabir surya

SUGIHARTINI, Nining, Dr. Marchaban, DESS.,Apt

2004 | Tesis | S2 Ilmu Farmasi

Oktil metoksisinamat merupakan bahan aktif tabir surya yang banyak digunakan. Namun setelah mendapat paparan cahaya matahari oktil metoksisinamat mengalami degradasi sehingga penggunaannya sebagai tabir surya menjadi kurang efektif. Antioksidan memiliki potensi sebagai fotoprotektor. Flavonoid yang terkandung dalam fraksi etanol daun Plantago major L. memiliki potensi sebagai antioksidan. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengkaji pengaruh penambahan fraksi etanol daun Plantago major L. terhadap fotostabilitas dan efektivitas oktil metoksisinamat sebagai bahan aktif sediaan tabir surya. Pada penelitian ini digunakan dua formula. Formula I mengandung oktil metoksisinamat dan formula II mengandung campuran oktil metoksisinamat dengan fraksi etanol daun Plantago major L. (1:1). Pada penelitian fotostabilitas, kedua formula dipaparkan cahaya matahari selama 5 jam (pukul 09.00-14.00 WIB) dan setiap satu jam diambil sampelnya. Profil perubahan kadar oktil metoksisinamat dianalisis menggunakan metoda KCKT. Penentuan efektivitas oktil metoksisinamat sebagai tabir surya ditentukan berdasarkan persen transmisi eritema dan persen transmisi pigmentasi pada masingmasing formula sebelum dan sesudah pemaparan dengan cahaya matahari selama 5 jam. Analisis data secara statistik dilakukan dengan Student t test pada taraf kepercayaan 95%. Berdasarkan hasil curve fitting secara regresi non linear, oktil metoksisinamat diduga terdegradasi sesuai dengan mekanisme reaksi orde satu. Meskipun penambahan fraksi etanol daun Plantago major L. tidak meningkatkan fotostabilitas oktil metoksi sinamat secara bermakna (p > 0,05), namun efektivitasnya menghambat eritema khususnya setelah perlakuan pemaparan dengan cahaya matahari selama 5 jam meningkat secara bermakna (p < 0,05). Fraksi etanol tersebut juga menurunkan secara bermakna persen transmisi pigmentasi baik sebelum atau sesudah pemaparan dengan cahaya matahari (p < 0,05). Lebih jauh, karena fraksi etanol daun Plantago major L. mempunyai serapan maksimum pada 331,8 nm yang merupakan daerah UV A, kombinasinya dengan oktil metoksisinamat menghasilkan sediaan tabir surya yang efektif sebagai pelindung baik terhadap UV A maupun UV B.

Octyl methoxycinnamate is an active substance that commonly used for sun screen. After receiving the solar irradiation, octyl methoxycinnamate degraded and as a result unles effective sunscreen formulation becomes less effective. An antioxidant has capability as a photo-protector. Flavonoid in the ethanol fraction of Plantago major L. leaves is reported to have an antioxidant action. This research was aimed to examine the influence of the addition of the ethanol fraction of Plantago major L. leaves to the photostability and the effectiveness of octyl methoxycinnamate as a sunscreen formulation. In this research, two formulas were performed. Formula I contained octyl methoxycinnamate per se and formula II contained a 1:1 mixture of octyl methoxycinnamate and the ethanol fraction of Plantago major L. leaves. In the photostability studies, both formulas were exposed to the sun light for 5 hours (09.00-14.00 IWT) in which samples were taken every hour. The profiles of octyl methoxycinnamate concentration were then analyzed usin HPLC method. The effectiveness of octyl methoxycinnamate was calculated based on the percentage of erythema transmission and the percentage of pigmentation transmission, prior and after the irradiation with the sun light for 5 hours. The statistical data analysis was performed based on the Student t test with a confidence level of 95%. Based on the curve fitting results using a non linear regression, degradation of octyl methoxycinnamate was proposed to follow a first order kinetics reaction. Although the addition of the ethanol fraction of Plantago major L. leaves did not statistically improve the photo-stability of octyl methoxycinnamate (p > 0.05), its effectiveness in preventing erythema especially after solar irradiation for 5 hours, significantly increased. The ethanol fraction also significantly reduced the percentage of pigmentation transmission prior and after solar irradiation (p < 0.05). Furthermore, as the ethanol fraction has the maximum absorption at 331.8 nm, that is in the UV A spectrum, its combination with octyl methoxycinnamate will result in a sun screen formulation that might be protective toward UV A as well as UV B.

Kata Kunci : Bahan Kosmetika,Otil Metoksisinamat,Fraksi Etanol, octyl methoxycinnamate, ethanol fraction of Plantago major L. leaves, photo-stability, percentage of erythema transmission, percentage of pigmentation transmission