PEMBUATAN DAN KARAKTERISASI EMULSI KOSMETIK BERBAHAN BAKU VIRGIN COCONUT OIL (VCO)

ISNIN AULIA ULFAH MUAWANAH, Dr. A. H. Bambang Setiaji, M.Sc.

2014 | Tesis | S2 Ilmu Kimia

Telah dilakukan penelitian tentang pembuatan dan karakterisasi emulsi kosmetik berbahan baku Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO). Emulsi kosmetik yang baik harus sesuai dengan standar sediaan kosmetik (SNI 16-4399-1996) yang meliputi penampakan, pH, viskositas dan Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Pembuatan emulsi kosmetik dilakukan dengan berbagai variasi konsentrasi VCO 1-25% dan dibuat emulsi kosmetik tanpa VCO sebagai kontrol. Sediaan emulsi kosmetik yang diperoleh diuji kestabilan emulsinya yang meliputi uji pH dan viskositas yang dilakukan selama 4 minggu penyimpanan, uji ukuran droplet dan uji pemisahan fase dengan sentrifugasi, dikarakterisasi daerah serapan UV dan dihitung nilai SPF. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa emulsi kosmetik berbahan baku VCO dapat memberikan serapan pada daerah UV C. Semakin tinggi konsentrasi VCO maka pH dan viskositas emulsi cenderung semakin kecil, ukuran droplet semakin besar dan nilai SPF semakin tinggi. Berdasarkan uji kestabilannya selama penyimpanan, pH emulsi stabil dan viskositas semakin meningkat dengan meningkatnya waktu penyimpanan. Hasil uji sentrifugasi selama 4 jam menunjukkan tidak terjadi pemisahan fase untuk semua emulsi. Emulsi kosmetik dengan konsentrasi VCO 7% merupakan emulsi kosmetik terbaik yang memiliki penampakan homogen, pH berkisar 6,94-6,96 dan viskositas 295 poise, sedangkan berdasarkan kriteria SPF, semua emulsi kosmetik yang diperoleh belum memenuhi standar sediaan kosmetik di Indonesia.

A study about preparation and characterization of cosmetics emulsion based Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO) has been done. The good emulsion must comply the quality requirement of cosmetic (SNI 16-4399-1996) which includes appearance, pH, viscosity and the Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Preparation of cosmetic emulsion was done with various concentration of VCO 1-25% and cosmetic emulsion without VCO as control. The cosmetic emulsions were characterized included the emulsion stability by using pH test and viscosity test during four weeks of storage, droplet size measurement test, phase separation by centrifugation test and UV absorption to determine SPF values. The result showed that the cosmetic emulsion can provide absorption of UV C region. The increasing of VCO concentration in cosmetic emulsion decreased pH and viscosity of the emulsion but increased droplet size and SPF value. Stability test during storage showed that the pH of emulsion was stable and the viscosity increased with the increasing of the storage time. Centrifugation test showed no phase separation for all emulsions. Cosmetic emulsion with concentration of VCO 7% has the best cosmetic emulsion with homogeneous appearance, pH 6.94 to 6.96 and a viscosity of 295 poise, while the SPF criteria, all emulsion cosmetic emulsions does not fulfilled that the quality requirement of cosmetic in Indonesia.

Kata Kunci : emulsi, Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO), Sun Protection Factor (SPF)