TRACKING DOWNS CHRISTIAN DIOR IN AMERICAN POST WORLD WAR II UNTIL EARLY 1950s

NURINA AULIA HARIS, Prof. Dr. Juliasih, S.U.

2017 | Tesis | S2 Pengkajian Amerika

INTISARI Prancis terkenal dengan industri busananya atau sering disebut dengan Adi Busana. Rumah bagi banyak perancang dan pengarah busana terkemuka dan menjadi pusat dari tren busana di dunia. Banyak perancang busana dari negara lain yang melihat peragaan busana Prancis setiap musimnya untuk melihat tren terkini yang ingin mereka bawa pulang ke negara masing-masing. Louis Vuitton, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, dan Yves Saint Laurent adalah beberapa perancang busana Prancis yang sukses membangun kerajaan busana mereka di seluruh dunia termasuk Amerika. Penelitian ini mempelajari pencapaian Christian Dior pada saat usaha bisnisnya di pasar Amerika dengan menggunakan otobiograf milik Dior sebagai sumber utama penelitian dan penelitian kualitatif sebagai metode pembelajaran. Teori hegemoni milik Gramsci dan pemikiran Graves tentang perilaku konsumen digunakan sebagai pendekatan dibawah payung Transnational American Studies. Sifat alami manusia dan waktu menjadi penting dalam kesuksesan Dior di pasar Amerika. Tindakan hegemoniknya dilakukan dengan membangun citra baru untuk mereknya dan orang yang memakainya. Citra yang dia buat seperti mewah, glamor, dan cantik sudah secara sukses menyerap dalam pikiran orang-orang dan membuat mereka dengan suka rela mengikuti tren yang dia buat melalui koleksi-koleksinya. Keputusannya untuk membuka toko di New York dan membedakannya dari rumah busana utama di Paris menjadi salah satu senjatanya untuk memperkuat dominasi busananya di Amerika.

France is famous for its fashion industry or commonly known as haute couture. House of many prominent fashion designers and stylist and become the center of fashion trends in the world. Many designers from other countries look up at French fashion show each season to see the current trend they want to bring to their homeland. Louis Vuitton, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent were some who successfully built their fashion kingdom worldwide. This research studied the accomplishment of Christian Dior during his business venture in American market by using his autobiography as the main source of the research and qualitative research as the method of study. Hegemony theory by Gramsci and GravesO thought on Consumer Behavior are used as the approach of study under the umbrella of Transnational American Studies. Human nature and timing become central to Dior success in American market. His hegemonic action was done by building a new image to both his brand and the people who wear it. The images he create such as luxury, glamour, and beautiful has successfully absorbs in people mind and make them willingly follow the trends he made through his collections. His decision to open a store in New York and differentiate it with his main fashion house in Paris became one of his weapons to strengthen his fashion domination in America.

Kata Kunci : Hegemoni, Christian Dior, Busana, Masyarakat, Perang Dunia II